Waiting

Ten remain here now. When first we arrived there were five (including us) but there have been as many as fifteen. Hunkered down. Waiting. Making our way through the food and water we carry. Attempting to stay busy with entertainments even though most of our conscious thought is preoccupied with the weather. Some lower their dinghies and venture to shore but most don’t. Most are staying enclosed. Finishing up little projects. Doing the day-to-day chores. Reading books. Playing games. Watching movies. Putting a reef in the main. Getting everything ready and leaving only the smallest jobs to be done at the last minute…once the weather window opens. There is little radio contact between the boats. Mostly it is just comparing weather information. What they heard on the morning or evening net. How this one or that interpreted the grib files or weather websites. We all know first hand how nasty this leg can be. We all want to be safe. Have a comfortable passage. For me, the anxiety is raw as an open wound. Our previous attempt, four days ago, was wisely aborted. Uncomfortable and at times frightening. After that you tend to be more nervous about leaving a safe anchorage. Several have gone south (with the weather). Only three others have attempted the northbound challenge. One returned the next day. One had a very hard time and spent two days instead of one reaching his goal. The third…a macho uber-racer…must have made it as well but I’m sure the trip wasn’t much fun. Another opportunity seems to be presenting itself so all are preparing. Some will be leaving this afternoon. Others in the middle of the night. We have decided to wait for morning. Just to give the seas a few more hours to calm down. Hopefully it will be enough.

Chillin' in Chamela

Okay…I think I am finally “over” beating myself up for being a wussie-pants and turning back last night. Chris has told me that it was the “right” decision and he is glad I made it.

We arrived in Chamela Saturday afternoon after a nice, day sail from Barra de Navidad. We had been watching the GRIBS (official weather documents that we get via the internet) and listening to weather reports and it appeared that Monday would be the best day to scoot around the infamous Cabo Corrientes and into La Cruz. In the meantime, we had a little time to enjoy this pretty little palm fringed bay and relax. Our friend, Dan, was already here and waiting for the same weather window. He planned to leave on Sunday so we had him over for dinner Saturday night to catch up.

Sunday Chris & I were having our morning coffee when we heard “Faith! Faith!” and came up into the cockpit as Steve on “Nautilus” circled us on his way in. He and two other boats had come down from La Cruz that night and were ready for a little socializing followed by a good night’s sleep. We all got together on “Cloud IX” for drinks and a wonderful dinner of Chili Rellenos, beans and rice prepared by Marta. As is always the case with cruisers, it didn’t take long for the conversation to turn to weather and their trip south. Mike, the local weather guru in Banderas Bay said if you were going south, Sunday was the only day to go as there is a big norther building up that will be here starting Monday. Then they told us that they’d had 30 knot winds coming around the Cape and were going very, very fast under reefed sails. OK…second thoughts about leaving on Monday!

Monday morning we pulled the GRIBS again and it looked do-able. The official prediction was for NW winds of 10-11 knots and seas of 3-4 feet at 15 second intervals. It would be uncomfortable but nothing we haven’t done before…and…it was supposed to calm down after dark. Cabo Corrientes is well known for nasty weather (as are most capes) so most people go around it sometime between 10pm and 10 am under the theory that that is when it is the calmest. We discussed the options and what we wanted to do (see friends who are in La Cruz…get started on renewing our FM3’s…get to Mazatlan to get Chris’ knee looked at…etc) and decided to go for it. Again…IF the weather had been as predicted it wouldn’t have been any worse than last year’s trip north.

We left Chamela at noon yesterday and had fairly benign conditions with wind about 10 knots (smack dab on the nose, of course…which means you can’t sail into it) and seas about 2 feet. We motored happily north looking for whales and other sea life. About 5:00 I made dinner before taking my 6pm watch. While I was cooking it was clear that things had really started picking up. The seas came up to 4 ft or so and were very confused (from more than one direction) and the wind was gradually building. By the time sunset rolled around at 7:00 we were into winds that were 25 knots and higher (still directly on the nose) and breaking seas that had built to 5-6 feet and were very close together. The boat would climb up to the top of one of these big waves and crash down into the trough, drenching the entire boat in saltwater. Clearly, conditions were worsening by the minute. This was VERY uncomfortable! My mind was churning. I kept reminding myself that “the boats can take it…it is just the people who are uncomfortable” and thinking about being tied up to a slip the next day. As we climbed to the top of another big one and slammed down on the other side our boat speed went down to 2 knots. At that point I decided that the experience was no longer meeting our #1 criteria…it was no longer fun! I knew that at that speed it would take 10 more hours of pounding just to get to the Cape and then we had another 6-8 hours to cross Banderas Bay. I broached the subject of turning back and Chris said he was fine with whatever we did but that it was my decision. Oh…the “joys” of being the “La Capitana”! After a few more minutes of bashing, as the last of the light was leaving the sky, I decided I just, plain didn’t feel like doing this all night long and around we went.

Once we turned south again the whole motion of the boat calmed right down. Poor Abby had been below…terrified…through all that bucking and pounding. We’d been down several times to pet her and talk to her but she was not happy with the situation and we couldn’t really do a lot to ease her stress with all that was going on and our own elevated stress levels. At any rate, once we turned around things changed dramatically. We were now going w-i-t-h the wind and the seas and even though the waves were still big and still breaking, we were surfing down the front instead of trying to go over the top. We averaged 7 knots on the return trip and by 1:30 am we were back in the anchorage with the hook down & set and ready for a good night’s sleep.

This morning Chris checked the GRIBS again and we’ll be listening to the nets regularly to get the very latest but at this point it looks like we will be here for at least a week. Oh well. I am willing to wait for a MUCH calmer passage! We loaded up on food, water and wine before we left Barra. We have movies (and a few more episodes of Boston Legal) to watch, games to play, internet access and tons of great reading material. The wind is up again but we are securely anchored in a beautiful spot. I’m happy. Chris is happy. Abby is happy. And this is a nice opportunity for Chris & I to just enjoy being “alone together” for a while. Life is good!

Position changes!

Excitement abounds in the Barra de Navidad Lagoon today. A little land breeze came up this morning and the boats were off and running. The usual is for mornings to be quite calm and sometime in the afternoon the wind comes up from the west or northwest. It tends to funnel down the channel and it’s not unusual to see fairly high gusts between 2 and about 5. Then, after sunset, everything quiets back down again and we can get a good night’s sleep.

This morning when I woke up and looked out the ports to make sure we were in the same place, I noticed that a new boat had anchored slightly to port of us. It was a MacGregor 26 with no mast and looked vaguely familiar. Last year a similar boat had dragged around the anchorage (and was rescued) numerous times. Turns out it is the same boat and not much has changed.

We were busy today as Chris was running the morning net and we had ordered 100 gallons of water to be delivered at 10:00. Chris finished the net and Maria arrived right on time followed shortly by the French Baker with our morning croissants. We had just finished filling the water tanks and were sitting in the cockpit enjoying our pastries and the last cups of lukewarm coffee when I looked to port and realized the little MacGregor wasn’t in the same place. I asked Chris if I was imagining things (when it comes to dragging boats I tend to do that) but he confirmed that the boat was definitely on the move. Clearly, no one was aboard so Chris put out a call to the fleet and he and several others jumped in their dinghies and went to the rescue to secure the boat before it ran aground or hit someone else.

While all this excitement was going on, another, larger, boat to starboard of our starboard neighbor was also in the process of drifting. I could see the owner and our neighbor having a rather long discussion and finally the dragging boat pulled up his anchor and moved to a new (presumably more secure) spot.

Once the errant MacGregor was re-anchored, Chris was back and just finishing up his breakfast when another call came over the radio. This one was a larger boat with a deep (bulb) keel that the owner had just realized was aground. We have an exceptionally low tide today. There was much advice given over the radio, all to no avail, so Chris dinghied over to help the owner put out a second anchor abeam to, hopefully, keep the boat from tipping completely over. He was considering having a panga pull him out but the fleet advised strongly against this tack because of the possibility of damaging his rudder. As I write this, I can see the boat canted at an unnatural slant. I do hope the owners have decided to just relax and have a glass of wine while they wait for the tide to change.

While Chris was off helping the grounded boat, the radio came alive again. A large trawler was now dragging down on a 50’ sailboat and no one was aboard. Off went the dinghies once again! A couple people got aboard to see if they could start the engine (nope) or raise the anchor (fortunately there was very little chain out and they were able to raise it by hand). Meanwhile, the little inflatables worked like a group of tugboats moving the trawler to a better place in the anchorage. They then re-anchored the boat with much more chain out so he wouldn’t drag again.

This anchorage is well known for it's slippery-slidey bottom so those of us who have been here before know to follow a few simple procedures. 1) Always put out 100’ of chain…even though you are only in 10’ of water. 2) Always leave your key in the ignition and your windlass controls fully accessible. 3) Don’t leave your boat until you are absolutely sure your anchor is holding. 4) Take a VHF when you do leave and turn it on!

Even when you do everything just right, sometimes things just happen. Someone new may come in and drop his anchor on top of yours, unseating it. The wind may pipe up substantially from a new direction and swing the boat around so the anchor comes “un-stuck”. Those are only two of the myriad possibilities. Who knows…your boat might just decide it wants a change of scenery and it is time to go walkabout. Still…even though this anchorage is known as a place where anchors drag, it is a lovely spot to visit.

Fortunately, the world of cruisers is full of good Samaritans and you can always count on help when you need it. We are all in need of all the Kharma we can build up.

Dragging anchor seems to follow the same maxim “the boys” used to tell me about running aground on the Columbia River, “Its not IF you run aground…its WHEN.”

Jordan's Visit - Part Two

It’s hard to believe but we are closing in on the last couple days of Jordan’s visit. We’re very sad to see him go and would keep him indefinitely but Michael & Gabrielle are flying home on Monday and we were able to get Jordan on the same flight. This means that he will have adults he knows to help him jump through the customs hoops in San Diego. He could probably negotiate it by himself but we will just feel better if he has help.

After Michael & Gabrielle arrived in La Cruz we hung around there for a few days so they could see a bit of the area and Jordan could work ahead on schoolwork before heading south. We had gotten a bit complacent about watching the weather so when we started thinking about leaving the dock we were surprised to learn that a gale was on its way down from the Sea. We either had to leave Saturday morning (the 29^th) or wait for who-knows-how-long until the weather passed. We opted to leave.

Saturday morning we were up early to finish the last minute chores and give the dog one last romp on the beach. After a stop at the fuel dock, we were on our way. It was a beautiful day with very little wind. Everyone was on alert for whales, dolphins, etc but there weren’t many about. As we got closer to Cabo Corrientes the swell got a bigger and closer together and some of the crew began to feel a little uncomfortable. Jordan and Gabrielle were both queasy so we gave them some Sturgeron and I made dinner in hopes that something in their stomachs would help. It worked for Jordan began to feel better but not for poor Gabrielle. I’m afraid she was pretty miserable for the rest of the trip.

Even though the passage was a bit lumpy, everything was pushing us from astern so it was a fast trip…just 22 hours. As we came into Tenacatita it looked like there were few boats in residence but the closer we got the more masts appeared. There were over 40 boats anchored and even though it is a large bay, we ended up close enough to the beach to hear the surf pounding all night. The weather from the north created some pretty big swells and with our history of unsuccessful surf landings we chose not to challenge the huge waves.

One day Michael & Gabrielle decided to take the dinghy in, anchor outside the breaking waves and swim to the beach. After they were ashore and had walked down the beach, Chris realized the dinghy was not anchored anymore. The swells were just too big for the amount of rode. The anchor unhooked itself and the dinghy was on its way to shore. He had Lewis (from the Merry Lee) take him over to pick it up and bring it back to the boat. When Michael & Gabrielle returned and the dink was gone they had a few moments of panic before realizing it was attached to the boat.

Jordan was able to do some fishing from the boat (though he didn’t catch anything big enough to eat) and drive the dink around the anchorage visiting the cruising friends he’d met during our stay in La Cruz.

The weather was predicted to change again so we decided to head on into Barra de Navidad where we’d have a nice, calm resting place. The original “plan” was to go to Las Hadas and Santiago but with the expected weather change they were both likely to be pretty rolly and we didn’t want to test the stomachs of our guests again.

Since we have been in Barra we have enjoyed showing everyone around this town as well as Melaque and La Manzanilla. We’ve spent time in the pool at the Sands, dined at most of our favorite restaurants, caught up with more of our other cruiser friends and, of course, everyone has enjoyed the daily visits from the French Baker.

Tomorrow we put the three of them on a bus to Puerto Vallarta where they will spend one night before flying back to rainy Portland. Chris & I will miss them all but, especially Jordan. Still…we are already planning his visit next year!