San Carlos, 2012

OK…OK…OK! Last night when I called Mary I was severely admonished because I haven’t posted a blog entry in so long. I explained that since we haven’t left San Carlos since we got here it seems like life has been kind of boring. She said no matter what we are doing, the mere fact that we are on a boat in Mexico makes it not boring. So, I will see what I can come up with.

Algodones Beach (aka Catch 22 Beach)

Today the wind is screaming and we have whitecaps bouncing through the marina. The boat is being pushed every which way and the dock lines are straining to keep us attached to the dock. Just getting onto or off of the boat is a challenge as you have to coordinate your step up or down with the back & forth rhythm of the boat. We have had this wind more often than not as San Carlos creates a kind of Venturi effect and the afternoon breeze outside just funnels down the entrance and builds in strength as it gets further in. It usually starts around 11am and builds until sunset.

Local Fauna.

Once the sun goes down the wind normally dies. In this case, however, we have what is called “Norther”. It is a front that has started in the Pacific NW and goes all the way down the coast and across the Baja peninsula and Sea of Cortez. The wind has been a pretty steady 25 knots but some gusts have gone as high as 40. Eww! We are quite happy that we are at a dock. At anchor would be uncomfortable & stressful…sailing would be totally ugly. Abby just hates big wind and tends to curl up in her bed with her stuffed dragon and shake, which is exactly what she is doing now.

View from the Restaurant At The End Of The World (in La Manga)

So what have we been doing all this time? Chris has been servicing all the parts & pieces of the engine (we have a 50 hp Yanmar diesel), replacing batteries and water tanks, re-running all the halyards, re-installing the aft head, re-building the forward head, checking the gribs (on line weather reports) and all sorts of other odds and ends jobs. I have been oiling teak, cleaning heads, making beds, organizing, stowing & inventorying food, doing laundry and all manner of domestic chores that everyone else does albeit in a house on land. Our friends, Ken & Linde (S/V Rosebud) are still here and living in their RV as they have decided to sell the sailboat and move up to a trawler so we have spent a bit of time hanging out with them. Linde & I have played quite a few games of Baja Canasta in the past few weeks!

Since we knew we were going to be in one place for at least a month I decided this would be a good time to take a Spanish class. What a great idea that has turned out to be. I have been able to attend for almost 8 weeks and I’ve really learned a lot. Over the past three years I’ve picked up a lot of words but now I am actually able to form sentences and I’m not afraid to initiate an actual conversation. Still have lots to learn but I am making great progress and have even taught Chris (who speaks excellent Spanish) some new things.

View from the Mirador (Viewpoint).

The weather is supposed to calm down some tomorrow and by Thursday we are looking at a nice long weather window so we are preparing to leave that day. In the meantime we are doing last minute chores so we can be away from marinas for a couple months. Yesterday Chris changed the fuel filters and tomorrow he will change the oil. I defrosted the freezer, made a trip to Tony’s to stock up on fresh veggies (which are much harder to come by on the Baja) and got my hair cut today. All these great veggies for about $16!

Later today or tomorrow Chris & I will make one more trip to Guaymas to stock up on wine & beer, make a stop at the bank and the Santa Rosa Market to get meat. Tomorrow morning we’re invited over to Leonard’s boat for breakfast and then I am meeting Linde at the Laundromat to get all our laundry done and play a few last hands of Baja Canasta. Tomorrow evening we’re having Ken & Linde over for dinner and Thursday morning we are outta here. Our first stop will be Bahia San Pedro (28° 03.443’N, 111° 14.782’W for those who like to look on Google Earth) for a couple reasons. First of all it is only 15nm north of San Carlos so is an easy 3-4 hour sail. It is a protected anchorage that has no amenities (ie: no people or town). It is also the very first place Chris & I went in the Sea. When we were first getting to know each other I flew to Tucson for a weeklong visit and we came to San Carlos to sail on his 26’ boat. This was where he took me so it has a bit of romantic background for us. We’ll anchor there for a couple nights and then scoot across the Sea and start working our way south through some of the beautiful anchorages on the Baja.

So…that is what we’re doing. Sounds pretty boring to me but the sun is shining, the sky is blue and we have watched some spectacular sunsets. We’ve visited with friends. We’ve done a little local exploring. We’ve read a few books. We’ve gone out for some great meals. As Chris likes to say, “It’s all good”. San Carlos Sunset

Doors and Windows

Last Sunday morning I decided to take my camera for a walk. It was a beautiful, sunny day (like always) and the temperature was a perfect 75-ish. I have been enthralled by the stunning homes that feature the work of local craftsmen and wanted to share a bit of that with my followers.

One of the things I enjoy most about Mexican homes is that there are no two alike. Don't you love this unusual wall and door?

The American phenomenon of neighborhoods filled with houses that are all the same shape and all painted one of five shades of dull is extremely rare here. There are a few areas where you will find a “planned” and “gated” community of boxes that are all the same size, shape and color, but they are few and far between and, judging by the billboards and other enticements around the sales office, they seem to be built to lure the American market. Most of those seem to be timeshares, condos and apartments that are sold at exorbitant prices with very restrictive usage agreements.

Most of the homes I see in the towns we frequent are built to the individual’s personal taste and painted to express their imagination. The palette of brilliant color combinations is unending and even though the dust is relentless, the buildings usually appear spotlessly clean or freshly painted. There seems to be a paint store on almost every corner so materials are readily available.

A walk through almost any neighborhood is a feast for the eyes. Here are homes painted pink, blue, gold, turquoise and purple with all manner of unusual trim combinations.

Hard to see but stained glass windows frame this door.

The “extras” are nothing short of amazing. Wrought iron is a real art and it is not unusual to see gates with dolphins, marlin, roses and all sorts of other symbols intricately worked into the iron. If the designs weren’t enough, they are often beautifully painted or set off by rock walls or brilliant plants that are clearly chosen specifically for that purpose.

Doors and windows are my particularly favorite eye candy. The designs are created by people with imaginations that have no limits and serve no masters. Artists who are not limited by strict rules set by a Neighborhood Association or the “What will the neighbors think?” concerns many of us grew up with. Clearly these stunning doors and windows are set into each home with much forethought and are intended to draw the eye of passersby. They are all different. Many are stunningly exotic. Some recall a past era. Love the fish & "seaweed" wrought iron!

Some are quaint or whimsical. Many are absolutely breathtaking.

Since I spend winters enjoying the sunshine and good will of Mexico I can understand others wanting the same thing. What I can’t understand is the draw of a beige box surrounded by a locked gate with all the same neighbors you have back home. I love the adventure of tottering down a cobblestone street, and being greeted with “Hola” or “Buenos Dias” by the people I pass. Rounding a corner or reaching a dead end and finding a home in front of me with spectacular doors and windows is the frosting on the cake.

Road Trip with Lee

One of the stops we made on our journey south was Nipomo, CA. Chris’ brother Lee and his wife, Julie have a new townhome there where they reside during the winter months. They have a lovely home in Florence, OR but they, like us, prefer a sunnier clime to the normal winter gloom of the NW. Their new digs are part of a planned community that centers mostly around golf. There is a beautiful golf course close by as well as tennis courts, a pool and a lovely clubhouse with workout facilities, spa and library in addition to dining and bar areas. The homes are beautiful and Lee & Julie are really enjoying the weather, their friendly neighbors and, of course the golfing. Chris & I have a great time playing golf on our new Wii but our outdoor passion, as you know, is more water oriented.

While we were in Nipomo, Lee took us on a drive to show us around some of the nearby sights. First stop was Pismo Beach. This is a typical California beach. A beautiful palette of long, flat, golden sand accented by blue Pacific waves cascading onto the beach in perfectly timed displays of white lace surf. An irresistible invitation to surfers, sand castle builders, shell hunters and beach walkers. A pier that extends 1200 ft. out over the water is replete with benches on which to rest, enjoy the beauty and contemplate whatever it is you are contemplating. About halfway out the pier is a small kiosk where fishing gear can be rented for those who would like to try their hand at catching dinner. The main street is lined with assorted restaurants and boutique shops where you are free to leave behind a monetary contribution as a reminder of your visit.

After perusing Pismo Beach we were back on the road for a short jaunt to a special small grove of Eucalyptus trees. I’ve always wanted to see the annual gathering of Monarch Butterflies and one of the primary groves where this happens was our next stop. A talk presented by a Docent gave us a good deal of information about the butterflies. It seems the main reason they come to this particular grove is for the abundant supply of Milkweed which is the only food source for the caterpillar stage of their development. This plant is considered a weed so it is being removed in most places on a grand scale. That means the butterflies must work harder to survive…as if a 2500 mile migration weren’t work enough! Following the Docent’s talk, we wandered around looking for butterflies. It was chilly so there weren’t many fluttering about but when we looked up there were hundreds hanging in the trees in what looked like bunches dead leaves. Butterflies aren’t able to fly when it is too cold but just before we left the sun came out and the little snowbirds began to get a bit more active. They are just so pretty and this was a really special experience.

The last stop on our itinerary was a visit to the picturesque anchorage Avila Beach. Chris & I enjoyed wandering around the boatyard there, looking at the boats that were in the process of being repaired. One that was hanging from the slings of the lift looked an awful lot like our friend, Michael’s, Mariner but a bit smaller. We weren’t sure it was the same but one sure thing was that the owner has a lot of work ahead of him/her, especially given the amount of sea life on the bottom. We were pretty happy to be reminded that even though we have what we consider a lot of work to do on “Faith” it is really not much compared to other people’s projects.

It was a delight to let someone else do the driving while Chris & I just did a little sightseeing. This year we are late getting our southward journey started so it feels like it’s been a constant push. Even Abby has felt the stress. We were in Tucson for two days and when Chris & I returned from several hours of errand running and put her outside for a bit, the first thing she did was stretch out in the sun. As if to say, “Ahhhhhhhh…finally it is warm.” And that, my friends, is why we are happy to be snowbirds!

Mishmash

I wrote this a few days ago but haven't had time to post it before this so here goes:

We are finally southbound! As I write this, I am sitting in the waiting room of the Camping World in Vacaville, CA. I have to admit, having only blown by Vacaville on past journeys, I am quite surprised at what a modern, upscale burg it is. In case you are wondering why we chose to stop, the answer is quite simple. Just before the house closed the trailer’s heater went on strike. Since it was only a matter of days before we’d be moving into the house, the decision was made to buy a space heater for the trailer and put off repairing the furnace. Our first stop after leaving home, in Medford, OR, when the nighttime temperature dropped to 28°, made it abundantly clear that furnace repair was in our immediate future! Vacaville was the closest Camping World so here we are.

I never got around to writing the promised blog entry about the house, so here it is with a little travel mish mash worked in.

We had a grand time furnishing the house together. While we waited (and waited and waited) for the bank to do its thing Chris & I spent many days exploring furniture stores and learning about each other’s tastes. Not surprisingly, we generally have similar leanings when it comes to likes and dislikes with only a few big differences. One slight conflict was the size of the television. Chris wanted the 50” model and I was quite happy to “settle for” a much smaller version. He won that discussion but now that we have it mounted on the entertainment “wall” (IKEA special) I have to admit that a smaller one would probably have looked out of place.

An even grander time was entertaining family and friends over the holidays. Once we got the house “put together” we were able to host several parties (only the beginning I’m sure). We haven’t been home for Christmas in 3 years so it was a special treat to spend time with the kids and grandkids and actually be able to see them open their gifts. We have especially enjoyed being here to spend a little time with Chris’ first grandbaby, Asher. He was born September 26^th and is growing so fast. By the time we get back next June he will likely be on his feet and running.

Abby has absolutely loved having her very own squirrel filled yard where she could run and pursue the enemy to her heart’s content. The windows in the living room are quite low to the floor so she is able to be on the look-out for squirrels, cats or guests. When she sees a cat or squirrel in front she immediately runs to the backdoor to be let out as she is just sure it will be there waiting to be chased. She has also discovered that there are lots of sunny spots on comfy carpeted floors where she can take an afternoon snooze.

Once all the work was done on the house and we had arranged for a house sitter, it was time to start readying the trailer for the trek to Mexico. That last week before we left home was exhausting just moving everything into the trailer, cleaning, writing lists and watching the weather to make sure we wouldn’t be skating through the mountains in mountains of ice and snow.

So, Tuesday morning we left Vancouver and spent that night in cold Medford. We were concerned about freezing fog going through the mountains so delayed leaving until 11 on Wednesday and the road were clear and dry. As a matter of fact, the only snow we saw was a very light dusting on the very tops of the mountains in the distance and Mt. Shasta had less snow than it did when we went north last June. I predict (weatherperson that I am) that if something doesn’t change soon there will be drought conditions in the northwest next summer.

By the time we reached Vacaville yesterday the temperature was in the 70’s and we were able to change into t-shirts. Hallelujah! It’s sure nice to be back in the land of Palm trees and sunshine.

The Sentinel

The Sentinel attends his post in the gray and gloomy dawn. Faint morning light, fall’s chill in the air, and still he stands, unmoving, as he surveys his territory. His countenance is statue-like and with the cold, blue-gray of his suit he melts unseen into the surroundings. Eyes forward, posture unwavering, trance-like. Only his sharp eyes and unblinking gaze belie strict attention to his environ. Intruders may advance only so far before he stalks haughtily away or takes wing with a primordial squawk and flourish in search of a more secluded haunt.

“Who be these strange creatures”, thinks he, “who clomp about on awkward appendages, blathering and clanging with no regard for solitude or meditation? Have they no care for the thoughts of others? Or be they fearful of the quiet that is dawn and dusk?

Do they not feel the shudder of the fish below their feet? Fish, whose very scales vibrate with the touch of insect foot upon the water’s surface. Fish, who scatter madly at the slightest change in light or temperature. And what of the infant ducklings huddling in terror beneath the boards?

Behemoths, bahhhh. Let them all fly away on their winged craft and leave the waters and serenity to we who appreciate it.”

Sandy Smith (Edmonson) Fall 2006

Just thought it would be fun to start out the New Year with something old. Happy 2012 to all.

Fall Colors,...a little late!

I had intended to write a blog entry a couple weeks ago about the beautiful fall we have had in the northwest but somehow the time just time just flew by and now we are busy moving into the new house and fall has eased into the beginning of winter.

Personally, I have been through approximately 50 autumns in Washington as this is where I have spent the majority of my life. I was born in Port Angeles and lived there until I was twelve at which time my family moved to Tacoma. After high school I spent several years in San Diego before returning to Vancouver where I resided until 2008 when I sailed off into the sunset to begin spending cold, dark months in places more along the tropical lines.

Chris, on the other hand, has spent most of his life in Arizona where fall does not, apparently, arrive and depart with the same impact. It is mostly desert there and cacti and palm trees don’t react the way the deciduous trees in colder climes do when the days get shorter and the weather gets colder.

This year we have had one of the most spectacular seasons of color I have seen in a long while. I don’t know the reason for it. Maybe because the Spring lasted so long and summer (what there was of it) didn’t really arrive until sometime in August. Maybe the cause was global climate change. There could be any number of factors, but the reality is the colors this year were spectacular. Every day, as we drove or walked around the area, we’d see dramatic trees showing off their autumn finery. A sharp intake of breath and “Wow!” would ensue. Chris was continuously telling me that he’d never seen anything like it and how much he loved the beauty of the whole thing.

The trees are mostly naked now and every morning we wake up to find a thick coating of frost on the grass. The sunny days are spectacularly clear and crisply cold and when the fog settles in it often sticks around all day. I know the weeks and weeks of rain and gloom are on the way and already the weather guys on TV are beginning to speculate on the possibilities of a white Christmas but for the moment I’m good. I, like many long time north westerners, have always disliked the long, cold, rainy winters in this part of the world but the summers are spectacular so we slog through one to enjoy the other. I suspect it will be a lot different now that I don’t have to go to work. Oh, and it will probably help knowing that we will be heading for Mexico again come January!

Dreamin' 'bout Mexico!

I have awakened the past three mornings from vivid dreams of being back in Mexico and it is making me homesick. Adding to the feeling that time is fleeing is the unavoidable realization that the weather is clearly getting colder and wetter, the trees are shedding their leaves at an alarming rate and every day is growing shorter by 4 minutes. It doesn’t sound like much but when you add those 4 minutes up into one big lump it comes out to TWO HOURS in one month! Then, in just two short weeks Daylight Saving Time comes to a screeching halt. Once that happens the days will REALLY get short. Judging by my “old life”, when the weather gets cold, wet & dark I tend to get very bear-like. Chubby, grouchy and somnolent.

The land and sea cruisers are beginning their annual migration to the south. “Follow the sun” being our motto. I am jealous. And restless. I find myself wanting to go shopping for boat parts, canned food and paper products, top off the propane, start planning a route and all the other last minute things we would normally be doing at the end of summer.

Under normal circumstances we, too, would be starting the southbound trek but this year is different. This year we have made the (possibly idiotic) decision to purchase a house in Vancouver. The offer was made in early September and we have still received no answer from the bank. This is a short sale and we were appropriately warned of the traditionally longer timeline to obtain these homes but this is getting a bit aggravating. One would think the bank could at least give you a “yes” or “no” but alas that is not the case. Our realtor has been harassing the seller’s realtor. The seller’s realtor and the seller have been harassing the bank. All to no avail. In the meantime, time is whizzing by as we wait and hope that the snow doesn’t arrive before we get some sort of resolution. Our “moorage” in this RV Park expires on Nov. 3^rd. In past years we’ve been in Mexico by then.

Suffice it to say I am clearly missing Mexico. I miss the sunshine, the heat (it is currently 90 daytime/75 nighttime in San Carlos), the traveling, the food, the beautiful sunsets and anchorages, and, especially, the people. Walking back to the boat in shorts and tank top after an evening at Philo’s. Fish tacos and a cold cerveza at a palapa on the beach. Pelicans dive bombing next to the boat while they collect their dinner. Ohhhh…CATCHING a nice big Mahi Mahi for dinner! Dinghy raft ups. Local bands providing impromptu beach concerts.

OK. I’ll stop it. I’m sure it won’t be long now. Will it????