Culture Shock

We are back in the States and already it is proving to be quite the adventure.

After a week of hard work getting "Faith" clean, stripped down and put to bed (having Patty's help really cut down on the time it took) we made the drive back to Tucson on Sunday. Saturday evening at dinner we realized we had forgotten to close the thru hulls so "someone" would have to make a trip back to the yard on Sunday morning. My first-in-seven-months manicure/pedicure had taken place that afternoon so the obvious returnee was Chris. Enough said. At any rate, even with the unexpected trip to the yard we managed to have everything loaded up and were on our way by 10 am.

The drive to Nogales was uneventful and it was nice to see that the construction from last fall was all completed. Then we got to the border. Ahem. The line was actually quite short...there probably weren't 20 cars ahead of us...but for some reason the border patrol guys were really taking their time so it took 30 or so minutes to get to the front of the line. For those who don't already know, Chris has already been "busted" twice for having an undeclared apple in a cooler so now we are searched every time we re-enter the U.S. This time was no exception and having the trailer just opened the options for the Homeland Security guys. Really, though. "Our" guy was very laid back and nice and had a great sense of humor. We'd been careful to get rid of all fresh fruit & produce but I had no idea eggs would be a problem so the last 4 we had were surrendered to the border guy. We dropped Patty off in Green Valley where she was planning to visit a friend and by 6:30 Chris & I were settled into the Prince of Tucson RV Park where we'd stayed last fall. A long day but, thankfully, without emergencies.

We'll be in Tucson for about a week visiting Chris' friends and family and it is nice to be kind of settled for a little bit. Now begins the process of getting used to life in the fast lane again. Yesterday we started off by going to AT&T and getting cell service. Chris has had Verizon for quite a while but it is useless in Mexico and we'd heard about a new AT&T plan that has cell coverage for both the U.S. and Mexico with no additional charges. It sounded great and, as it turns out, is exactly as we'd heard. It is so nice to have a phone again (we each have one) and now I will be able to call home anytime...even when we're in Mexico.

After the trip to AT&T we spent some time catching up on emails, etc. and then went to the grocery store on the way back to the trailer. Holy guacamole! We bought meat for 3 meals, a few veggies, 1/2 gallon of ice cream, 3 bottles of (cheap) red wine, 2 loaves of bread, teeny packages of sugar & flour, a dozen eggs, tub of margarine, bottle of shampoo, bottle of shower gel and 2 toothbrushes. The bill came to $95 and I about dropped my teeth!!!! We can eat for two weeks (sometimes longer) for that much money in Mexico! Even if we go out to dinner every night! How in the world do people in the States afford to eat???

The other shock was the heat. I can not believe how hot it is here! Yesterday it was 107 and today (I haven't looked yet...I'm afraid) & tomorrow are predicted to be 109! It is so hot that I don't think I could walk all the way from the trailer to the pool without expiring! It is so hot that it will be a relief to go to the laundromat where it is air conditioned! It is so hot that the locals are fish belly white because they can't stay outside long enough to get tan! OK...maybe a little exaggeration but it is hot nevertheless. Believe it or not the weather guys are very excited that "any day now" the "monsoons" will start and there will be rain and flash flooding!

So that is the latest episode. We will be here for about a week and then start working our way north. Lots of people to visit on the way but we have decided that this time we will be taking our time and doing some sightseeing.

Stay tuned!

Snotty Weather and Sunken Dinghies

I began this blog entry as we were anchored in Willard on Tiburon Island. The wind was blowing 15-25 knots out of the east and did not let up for 3 solid days. The weather gurus got it wrong again.

When we left Isla las Animas and crossed the Sea of Cortez, the wind was a nice, comfortable 10-12 knots out of the southeast. We put up the sails and were sailing nicely for quite a while. The farther east we went, the higher the wind got and pretty soon we were rollicking through 2-3 ft swells and wind chop and having a great time. As we all know, all good things must end and as the day went on, the wind built to 20, 22, 25 knots and gusts over that. Down came the headsail and still we were roaring on. We had hoped for some protection in Willard but it was not great. Since the wind was coming off the land, there was no fetch and the water in the anchorage was quite flat so we aren’t rocking, rolling, bouncing, etc, but the wind never went below 15.

The plan was to go around the corner to a place called Dog Bay but with the wind out of the wrong direction that option was no longer available. We really didn’t have any driving need to leave but Chris thought the unusual weather might have been some sort of phenomenon that was exclusive to that island so we decided to go to Los Cocinas…an anchorage about 75 miles away on the mainland coast.

We anticipated the trip to Los Cocinas (The Kitchens) to take about 14-15 hours so at 4am we had the anchor up and were leaving Willard in order to arrive at our destination during the daylight. Ha! This little trip turned out to be our worst ever passage since the Oregon coast.

As we left Willard, the wind was still blowing 20 knots but we weren’t concerned as we thought it would help us. What we hadn’t planned on (or looked at) was the tide. It was just beginning to flood and in that part of the Sea the tides are often as high as six knots. We were moving pretty fast but the boat speed over ground slowed to an incredible 1-2 knots. We continued to slog along for a while and then Chris & I discussed the option of turning back. We even turned the boat around for a short while. After some discussion we re-evaluated and decided that the tide was going to be a factor pretty much every day so back around to the south we went. As the day wore on, we didn’t see an appreciable difference in the tidal effect and the wind (which was still out of the southeast) never went below 16 knots but mostly stayed above 20 knots. The waves started out at 3-5 feet but the farther south we got the bigger they became and they were only 3 seconds apart so it was a real trial.

“Faith” is a big, heavy boat and she is quite happy to slog through pretty much anything you ask her to deal with but it was still uncomfortable for us. The wind would build to 25-30 knots and we’d slam into huge waves and then it would die back down to 15-20 knots for a while. Fortunately, we have a pretty dry boat and it was rare for a wave to get water into the cockpit.

We kept waiting for the tide to change in hopes that it would help our boat speed but, alas, the wind and water direction mitigated any reduction in the tide. It finally became apparent that this trip was going to take considerably longer than we had anticipated. As it turned out, it was 34 hours before we finally arrived and got anchored! To add insult to injury, the rough seas broke loose all the crap that was in the bottom of the fuel tank and both the fuel filters clogged up. The engine never quit but it wouldn't go above 1600 rpm's.

Once we were safely anchored in Los Cocinas, we were n-o-t leaving until the wind died off. The wind continued blowing a sustained 25 knots with gusts as high as 30…in the anchorage…for three days and we were absolutely not interested in jumping back out into those big seas any time soon. Even the pelicans weren't happy. They just stood on the beach for hours on end and when they attempted to fly somewhere they were working very hard. The day we arrived two boats from Tucson Sailing Club arrived…both considerably smaller (27' & 28'), and the folks on board were very tired and very, very wet. The one boat had lost its engine and it was pretty dark when they got here. Chris guided them in past all the rocks using lights and the VHF and talked them through anchoring under sail so they got safely settled next to us. Next day, Doubloon, a boat that was there when we arrived, decided they couldn't wait any longer and took off...like a shot. Both sails were reefed down but they were going north so were going with the wind instead of against it. They were out of sight in no time at all.

After 3 days of waiting, the weather guy said things were going to start calming down. Whoo hoo! Still, I had no intention of leaving until it was nice and flat “outside”. Alas…you know what they say about best laid plans!

Our third night turned out to be pretty rolly. Sometime during the night the wind and well had switched to the southwest and was coming straight into the anchorage. Sleeping was uncomfortable at best (actually, none of us got much) but when we got up we discovered that the stern was now facing the beach and we were just barely beyond the surf line. These huge rollers would come in and lift the boat and then break no more than 50' behind us and crash on the beach. As soon as I saw what was happening I knew we had to get out of there right away and started getting things below stowed. Chris went topsides to secure things and then I heard him make some unintelligible noise and tell me to come up and look. The dinghy was deflated and sinking, the outboard was totally underwater and the seat & gas tank were beginning to float away. The only way to get it hoisted out of the water and onto the davits was for Chris to go in. The next 30 minutes or so were hair-raising. Chris got in the water, handed the dinghy seat up to me, then detached the gas tank from the outboard and handed that up. By now the swells had turned the dinghy upside down making the next chore even more difficult and hazardous. I handed the line for the outboard lift to Chris and he had to get under the dink, attach it to the harness on the outboard and detach the outboard from the dinghy so Patty & I could lift it. We were both very concerned. He was between the stern of the boat (which was being lifted out of the water and then slammed back down into it by each big swell) and the dinghy as he worked to get all this done, all the while trying to avoid being carried to the beach or smashed by “Faith”. It was very, very scary. He finally got the outboard ready to lift and then moved away from the boat while Patty & I lifted it. Unfortunately, the line was twisted and we couldn't get the outboard on its stand so Chris had to climb back on board to accomplish that. When the motor was secured, he was back in the water to attach the davit lines to the fore and aft of the dinghy so we could raise that. Once he was safely back aboard "Faith" we raised the dinghy and then hurried to get out of there. Oh...by the way...did I mention that he did all this in the buff??? He'd had shorts on but as soon as they got wet they slid down and off so he decided to use that as an advantage.

I started the motor and began raising the anchor. I wasn't totally sure how close to the beach the anchor was set so I was plenty concerned that it might be inside the surf line. That would create a whole new set of problems. It all turned out fine and as soon as the anchor was up we powered out to sea.

The rest of the trip, on into San Carlos, turned out to be much better than we’d anticipated. The swells were still quite large (4 to 5 ft) and the wind stayed around 20 knots of wind but with the wind out of the SW we weren't fighting it and were able to make some decent time. We arrived in San Carlos 7 hours later and were able to pull into a lovely slip at the Marina Real. It was a real relief to sleep on a boat that was still and quiet.

A Visit From the Navy

We left Santa Rosalia Wednesday at 8:30 pm and motored all night so we could meet up with the Tucson Sailing Club in San Francisquito. Fourteen hours later we pulled in and set the anchor but, alas, they were pulling theirs and heading off to the next anchorage on their itinerary. We were pretty beat so we told them we’d meet them there on Thursday and went to bed.

Thursday morning was beautiful and we had the anchor up and were on our way by 9:30 am to make the 18 miles trip to Isla las Animas. This island is the middle one in a string of three and we were headed for an anchorage that none of the cruising guides mention. Turns out it was a lovely place with good holding, pretty green water and good protection from the wind.

We had almost reached Isla San Lorenzo (the southernmost of the three islands) when the Mexican Navy arrived. They had been in the area and had already stopped most, if not all, the Tucson Sailing Club boats to do “inspections” so it didn’t come as a surprise that we were next. They came alongside in a fast boat, told us to stop our engine (which we did immediately) and tied up to our port side. This boat had 9 men on board, most of which were wearing black ski masks and bulletproof vests and carrying machine guns. Most of them looked like teenagers to me but I have also noticed that the older I get the younger all the authority figures appear. What’s with that?? At any rate…as they were maneuvering their boat next to us a couple of the guys were taking photos. We weren’t sure if it was part of the inspection or because Patty & I were in swimsuits so we decided it would be best to “strike a pose”…well…Patty did anyway! Once they were tied to our port side, the man in charge took out a clipboard and began asking questions. He spoke fairly good English but when Chris began replying in Spanish the sigh of relief was audible and he switched to his native language. Mostly he just asked for some basic information, checked our TIP (import permit for the boat) and asked if we had any guns on board. Then he thanked us and said that if we have any problems the Mexican Navy is here to help and all we need to do is call them on channel 16. As they disengaged their lines I asked if I could take their photos and they said yes. All in all, it was a very pleasant experience.

Once the Navy left, we were on our way again. We rounded the tip of the island and started up the east side. We had spoken with the cruise leader that morning and discovered that they were moving on again…back to the Baja side…but two of the boats we were most anxious to visit with were staying to wait for us. We got a latitude/longitude which showed up on the NE side of the island on the, as usual, incorrect Mexico chart. Unfortunately, we ended up going all the way around all three islands to get to the anchorage, which was on the NorthWEST side. We did mention to our Tucson friends that evening that that would have been a helpful bit of information to have. The bonus, however, was that as we were rounding the northernmost island we passed a group of hundreds of dolphins on their way south. They were leaping and diving in rows of four and five…it was like being at Sea World. What fun! I tried to get a video but my cinematography skills are primitive at best. Somehow I just can’t watch what’s happening and film it at the same time. Still, it is always a thrill when the dolphins come out to play!

We finally arrived at 4:30pm…7 hours later to go 18 miles! Stu (“Sea Peace”) invited us over for burgers and a movie and Wally & Sue (“Toucan”) joined the party. We had a fun evening and the anchorage was flat and quiet so we slept like babies. Next morning “Toucan” was off early to go to Isla Rasa so the grandkids (who are traveling with them) could see the birds and then to catch up with the TSC cruisers. Stu went on to re-join the TSC cruise. Since we seem to be perpetually a day late…and…after 7 months of cruising Sandy is ready to take a breather…we gave up on trying to catch them and decided to continue on across the Sea of Cortez to put the boat away for the summer. There are 5 anchorages we plan to stop at on the way so the whole trip will take about a week and the weather looks exceptionally good for this last leg.

Note: For those who don’t know, the Mexican military is on the front line in the drug wars so they are everywhere. Not only is the Navy in evidence all over the Sea and the coastal waters, but pretty much anywhere you go ashore you’ll see large trucks driving around filled with young men in fatigues and carrying machine guns. Sometimes it is a little disconcerting but they are working hard to put an end to the violence that has been going on here.

San Juanico

This year we finally made it to San Juanico. Even before we left Portland I wanted to go there. Chris had sent me photos of this beautiful anchorage and I just fell in love with it. That feeling has not changed! What a magical place this is and how very, very lucky I am to have had the chance to experience it.

When we arrived at San Juanico last year the wind was out of the south and this anchorage doesn’t provide protection from that direction so we had to go around the corner to La Ramada. That is a perfectly nice place (though small) but I was very disappointed as this wasn’t where I wanted to be. We hiked to the top of the hill separating the two anchorages to look at San Juanico and that made me want to go there all the more.

This year the Gods were with us. We tucked into a wonderful spot close to the beach and enjoyed a perfect view of all the amazing rock formations that are unique to this place. Everywhere you look there are cliffs or pinnacles or beautifully colored layers of rock that have been created by wind and water over thousands of years. The water is that beautiful turquoise color we all love and there is a white sand bottom that provides perfect holding.

We stayed in San Juanico for several days so we could do some in depth exploring. One day we took the dinghy and went to several of the beaches that are tucked in amongst the rocks to look for shells and check out the cliffs up close and personal.

Another day we made the trek to the Cruiser’s Shrine (a tree that has become the recipient of all sorts of bizarre memorabilia placed there by the cruisers who have visited. Some items are hung on the tree and others are placed around the base of it but each is a unique piece that tells the world pretty much, “Kilroy was here”. It was great fun to check out all the boats that had been here and was especially fun to see that we know quite a few of them. Naturally, we left a little something from “Faith”. Chris had found an old piece of a bedpost on one of the beaches and carved and wrote our information on it. He located last year’s contribution, added that to the new item and hung it on the tree for all to see.

After taking care of this little bit of business, we hiked over the hill (that would be through the desert…think cactus galore and Sandy & Patty looking for snakes at every step) to La Ramada. Because the weather was out of the northeast, this anchorage was empty and rightly so since the swell was pounding through it and would have made for a very uncomfortable place to be. Once you get over the hill, there is a dirt road that goes to La Ramada (and eventually on to the main highway). This area of the Baja is known for its Apache Tears (beautiful black obsidian pebbles) and they are everywhere on the road. We gathered a small handful to bring home.

The story about Apache Tears is that in the late 1870’s a group of Apache Indians after several raids to steal cattle for food, were cornered by the US Cavalry at the top of a mountain. Outnumbered, out of arrows and having no way to defend themselves, the proud apache warriors chose to leap to their deaths rather than surrender to the enemy and suffer a fate which would be far worse.

When the apache women arrived and found their loved ones they cried for a whole month. So sincere were their tears that the apache gods turned them to dark translucent stone as they hit the earth and these stones are now known as Apache Tears.

The belief is that if you give a friend or loved one an Apache Tear it will bring them good luck and they will never need to cry because the Apache women have already cried the tears for them.

Every afternoon the cruisers who are gathered in San Juanico dinghy to the beach to play Bocce Ball and socialize. We always seemed to be engrossed in some other activity at that time so we didn’t participate but that just means we’ll have something new and fun to try next year. Don’t fret, though. We did still manage to get together with friends several times for happy hours on each others’ boats.

After three wonderful days in this anchorage it was time to get going again. I hated to leave but time waits for no (wo)man and we had to get north. Still…I was very happy to have had the opportunity to experience this beautiful location and am hopeful that we will visit there many times in the future.

San Juanico has definitely made it to the very tippy top of the “My Favorite Places” list.

The Critters Are Back!

Finally! The weather has calmed down and warmed up (Welcome home, Mexico!) and all the wildlife is returning.

Puerto Escondido has a couple of resident whale sharks and we had the privilege of seeing them up close and personal on several occasions. Our very first day there when we were returning from the showers the people on the boat next to us were standing out on their bow and pointing at the water between their boat and ours. We brought the dinghy to a halt and there was a whale shark coming right toward us! We didn't have a camera with us but from then on we carried one every time we went ashore. The problem we encountered was that the animals are at eye level when you are in an inflatable so trying to get a good photo was a real challenge. I got lots of splashes and a few fins and snouts but that was about it. The day before Hank & Patty arrived, Chris & I took the dinghy out of the anchorage and to the bay next door and there were two whale sharks. I managed to get some halfway decent shots and a great video of them.

Whale sharks are the biggest sharks in the world. They can grow to 50-60 feet but these were only about 15-20 feet so it appears they are juveniles. They are very gentle and there are quite a few places where you can hire a panga to take you out to see them and swim with them. Whale sharks are filter feeders. They sort of skim along the surface of the water with their mouths (which are a pretty substantial size) open taking in the crustaceans and tiny fish that they eat. They are pretty amazing and we were thrilled to get the chance to see some up close and personal.

Since we stayed in Puerto Escondido for over two weeks we must have looked like a pretty stable environment. After about the first week we started hearing this funny, high pitched bird call that was very close by. Both Chris & I thought it was some little bird but no matter how hard we listened and looked we couldn't locate one on the boat. Finally, one morning while I was brushing my teeth I heard it again and it sounded like it was directly above me. I looked up through the open hatch and, surprise! There was an Osprey sitting on to of the mast!! Last year we had a number of Frigate Birds (who broke the wind instrument quite thoroughly) and Boobies who seemed to enjoy the high perch but this bird was a first. Not only did he remind us of home (the Columbia River has many Osprey pairs who nest on posts erected along the edges just for them), but he was an exceptionally thoughtful guest. He never once dropped any "gifts" on the deck or sails.

Once Patty & Hank arrived it was time to start moving north. As I write this, we are anchored at Isla Coronado, which is about 18 miles north of Puerto Escondido. We had a beautiful trip up between the islands with wonderful weather. About halfway here we saw a disturbance in the water and, hoping that it might be fish (that we could catch) we diverted to go check it out. It wasn't fish. It was a huge pod of dolphins that were feeding on fish! I managed to get one halfway decent picture of them but that was it. Still, it was pretty thrilling to see them. When we arrived here, there were four dolphins that kind of hung around the boat for a short while before moving on. We were busy getting the anchor down so we didn't get any pictures but it looked like a couple moms with babies.

We are leaving shortly for Caleta San Juanico. This is a beautiful anchorage that I wanted badly to see last year but the weather was from the wrong direction. Looks like it will be good this time. Hopefully we will see more wildlife on the way. It has been a slim year for seeing animals. The weather was so cold and stormy all winter that they apparently went north where the water was warmer!

Just thinkin'...again

We are currently attached to a mooring buoy in Escondido (just south of Loreto) and I am enjoying the opportunity to just take a deep breath. So much has happened this season. We have had a lot of guests, which we love, but that has also meant that our "alone time" has been limited at times. It is such fun to have visitors from the cold country up north and watch as they learn that cruising means slowing down and enjoying the small things. Just being able to sit in the sun with a good book is a luxury that so many people don't have in the hustle and bustle of the "real" world. Last night we got together with our friends on "Nautilus" and, as we sat in the quiet and beauty of a moonless night and shared experiences over a couple glasses of red, I was reminded again of how fortunate we are to have this life. We talked about how uncomfortable the passages are when the wind is blowing like stink and right on the nose. We talked about the embarrassment of messing up when we dock or un-dock the boat. We talked about the sleep we lose when the wind comes up in an anchorage and we spend the night in a rolling boat worrying that the anchor will drag. But, then, the conversation turned to how truly lucky we are to be a part of the 1% who had a dream and are able to live it. The beauty of the places we visit is stunning. The wildlife that is a part of our daily lives is only available to the average person via television or movies. The ability to pack up our "homes" in an hour or two and move to a new place is freedom extraordinaire. The people we meet and form instant, intense relationships with is unique beyond words. If only we could transfer this closeness and sense of community to the neighborhoods back home so many problems would be solved. Here, if you have engine problems or electrical issues or any number of difficulties, there always seems to be someone around who is eager to lend a helping hand. Here, we leave the key in the ignition and if the boat drags anchor while you are gone, someone will get on it and re-anchor it for you. It isn't about making money...it is more about a sense of family and community. It is about building friendships and maybe a little Karma as well. Here, we all realize that we are on our own but we are also part of a great family that is continually growing and changing. We love to party but we also know that anything can happen tomorrow. Well, enough philosophizin'. I need to get started on today's chores! Chris went to town with Dan so I am free to do some cleaning up for our next guests' arrival, practice a little Spanish and then settle in with my latest book. Hopefully the resident whale shark will come by and I can try again to get a good picture of it.

Birthday Road Trip

Last year for my birthday, Chris’ gift to me was a trip to the South Pacific. In keeping with this established tradition, he decided that this year a road trip would be in order. It was a very good idea. We’ve been on the boat continuously since last November and, while I love the lifestyle, sometimes it is just plain nice to get away and do something else. Seeing a different landscape, spending a night in a hotel where the shower isn’t either in a closet-sized space or a long walk up the dock and CNN…in English…is on the TV 24/7, and having two days worth of meals you didn’t have to cook or clean up after is a pretty nice birthday present.

So…Tuesday morning our rental car arrived and we were off. On the way out of town we stopped at the Home Depot to pick up a few things for the boat. The “to do” list and the list of all the things that can make life more comfortable aboard is never far from our minds and having a car gave us the freedom to purchase extras that riding buses never does.

Back on the road, we drove into the desert and south to Todos Santos. I was really excited to see this little town as it is supposed to be a very cute, artsy place and home to the “Hotel California”. We arrived around noon and decided to begin with lunch at the Tequila Sunrise restaurant. The food was wonderful and I decided one of their signature drinks was definitely in order. It was very good and had a substantial amount of liquor so packed quite a punch. While we were enjoying a great meal, the owner brought everyone to attention and, along with an interesting story of his participation in numerous international drink competitions, he gave us all the recipe for a “perfect” Margarita. Chris & I have committed the correct ingredients and their amounts to memory and will try the drinks out on Patty & Hank when they arrive. Patty is, of course, our very own Margarita connoisseur. Last year she not only perfected the “boat” recipe but educated a number of bartenders on the correct ingredients to make a good Margarita (NO sweet and sour mix if you please).

Following lunch we began to wander around town checking out some of the beautiful buildings and artwork in town. The Hotel California was a bit disappointing but there were lots of other buildings that sported murals and extravagant artwork that more than made up for the somewhat mundane exterior of the H.C. I guess that finding out that the Eagles song wasn’t really a depiction of this establishment may have taken a bit of the shine off the building for me but, quite honestly, when you got up close and personal it looked a little tattered around the edges.

I was delighted to see some beautiful upscale trinkets and artwork for sale but, alas, Todos Santos has not escaped the tradition of salespersons that are aggressive and insistent. This is the one thing that truly distresses me when I want to “shop” in Mexico. For me, a lot of the shopping experience is about just being able to mosey around looking at things and when there is someone constantly harassing me to buy, buy, buy all I want to do is get away from them. One of the things that had piqued my interest and I wanted very much to purchase was a beautiful pitcher and drinking glass set that was blown glass and hand painted. There were quite a number of patterns to choose from but I couldn’t even concentrate enough to decide which I liked the best because the salesman was hovering and talking constantly. Granted, it was clear that he was trying to practice his English, but it was still very distracting. Instead of buying, I ended up walking out of the shop just to get away.

After seeing most of Todos Santos, and deciding to forego a night’s stay at the town’s centerpiece hotel, we continued driving south until we reached Cabo San Lucas. We checked into the hotel Patty, Hank & Allan stayed in last year. It is clean and comfortable and, best of all, not in the middle of the main glut of bars, strip clubs and noisy night clubs that make Cabo what it is. The next major project was to go get dinner. Sigh… We really wanted to sit by the water while we ate so we drove to the marina district and, wouldn’t you know, the Italian restaurant we wanted to go to was all the way on the other side. That meant we had to walk past all the other eating establishments to get there…each of which had at least one person out front to accost us with menus and attempts to coerce us into eating at their place of business. This is one of the things I really dislike about Cabo. When we had finally fought our way to the restaurant we wanted to patronize we were sorely disappointed. First of all, the wine was $10/glass (or $40 for a bottle of Merlot that normally sells for $10). Chris ordered the bottle but then explained to the waiter how disappointing it was that they were overcharging so badly for their wine. He wasn’t belligerent or angry about it, but the waiter took offense and was surly throughout the entire (mediocre) meal. We rarely punish wait staff with shorted tips here as they are usually the best part of eating out with their great attitudes but this guy was deserving of the 10% tip he received.

On the way back to the car we picked up a $7 bottle of Merlot at the market and spent a quiet evening watching TV and reading in our room. Ahhhh….

Wednesday morning, after a stop at Costco (whoo hoo!!), we were off again to continue the loop around the peninsula and back to La Paz. The scenery is stunningly different on the two sides of the Baja and especially so given the fact that it is only about 50-60 miles across. The Pacific side is all desert right down to the water but on the Sea side we drove through the Sierra La Laguna Mountains and were surprised to see many large areas with trees and vegetation…a clear indication that there is a lot of water from some source in this area. The water, also, was substantially different. The Pacific Ocean is a fairly consistent cobalt blue color right up to the beach whereas the Sea of Cortez sports a seemingly limitless variety of blues, greens and turquoises. Both are breathtaking.

Soon enough we were back in La Paz and it was time to unload all the groceries and goodies we had purchased and spend the next couple hours finding places to store things. We had invited our new friends, Skip & Cathy of “Traveler” over for wine at 6 and while we were gone Marni & Pete with “2 Pieces of Eight” had arrived so we were quickly back to our regular routine of socializing and entertaining.

It was most definitely a great way to celebrate a birthday.