Update from Puerto Escondido

All alone in San Pedro Bay.

I know some of you out there are wondering what in the heck happened to me but I have a very good explanation! We have been cruising around and the internet has been sporadic and weak. Today we are in Puerto Escondido, just south of Loreto, on the Baja Peninsula. We arrived here 3 days ago and picked up a mooring ball (like being anchored to a large hunk of cement on the bottom). Then Chris decided that after three weeks on the hook we needed one day in a “slip” to get the boat cleaned up, the water tanks filled, etc. It costs about $15/day to be on a mooring ball (anchoring here is the same price but anchoring anywhere else is free) and about 2 or 3 times that amount for one night at the dock. Still, we needed to fill the water tanks and the boat was one huge salt ball so it was worth it.

Faith in her "slip".

The “slip” we have is actually the end of the one dock they have here. The dock you tie up to is almost as long as “Faith” is and there is a powerboat parked at each end with their bows sticking out. Since it was going to be a bit of a challenge to parallel park between them we asked our friend, Bill, to catch a line for us and he was happy to do it. Note: Anchors attempting to mate!

As it turned out, when the dock guys saw us coming, they moved one of the powerboats back and then they came to help as well. I got her situated with no drama but it sure is a bit intimidating looking at how close our anchor is to the boat in front and our dinghy davits are to the one behind. I am anticipating an easier time getting out.

So, where, you might ask, have we been? Well, first we went to a beautiful anchorage just 15 miles north of San Carlos called Bahia San Pedro. This was the very first place in the Sea of Cortez that Chris took me.

Bahia San Pedro

This was on his little Columbia 26 back in 2008 when we were first getting to know each other. It was beautiful then and still is. The first night was very nice but the second was pretty uncomfortable as the southerly swell wrapped around the point and caused the boat to roll pretty substantially. In the morning the wind & swell had switched around from the NW so we moved across the Bay and tucked up behind the headland where the water was as flat as a pond. We were the only boat there so stayed for 2 more nights before heading across to Punta Chivato.

Abby on the way to the beach. Saying "Dinghy Ride?" to her is like saying, "Squirrel?"

The crossing was great. With 15 knots of wind and just little 2-3 ft. seas out of the NW we had a beam reach all the way across and averaged about 6.5 knots. I even caught a little Yellowtail Tuna for dinner!

Sandy's Yellowtail

It took 11 hours to cross and we arrived in Chivato just at sunset. We stayed for a couple days and then headed to Santo Domingo.

Chris on watch. Abby, not so much!

This anchorage is just inside of the Bahia de Concepcion and is a great staging area for people who are going to cross the Sea or just have. After one night we went deeper into the bay to El Burro Cove.

The last time we were at El Burro was in May of 2009 and I loved it. The water was that beautiful emerald green and very warm. This visit was not so pleasant. We arrived in the middle of Semana Santa (Easter week) and the place was swarming with tents and campers and everyone brought their water toys. After two days of being one of the rounding marks for the jet skiers we upped anchor and went back out to Santo Domingo where we were the only boat in the anchorage for three whole days. Talk about decadent!

Santo Domingo

From Santo Domingo, San Juanico was the next stop. This is a gorgeous anchorage with turquoise water and all sorts of amazing rock formations is a favorite with most of the cruisers. Most of the anchorage is only about 15-20 ft. deep and it is quite well protected, not to mention beautiful. The cruisers have erected a “shrine” here which is actually a large bush that all the visitors leave a momento on. I had hoped this would be THE place to try out my new kayak but, alas, it was pretty windy much of the time so I didn’t even unpack the new toy. San Juanico pillar rocks

The last night we were there, our friends, Bill & Lisa, on “Beyond Reason” organized a BBQ/bonfire on the beach. It was fun and there were lots of new people to meet. They picked one of the smaller beaches that is surrounded by big rocks so the cruising dogs could have the run of the beach without having to be watched constantly. Abby had a ball chasing around with Sparky and Tappy and Mia (I think that was her name). It was just as much fun for the dogs as it was for us and by the time we got back to the boat Abby was exhausted and went right to bed.

From San Juanico we went to Isla Coronados where there are several lovely anchorages. We stayed in one on the SW where we hadn’t been before. This is another place where the water is that stunning turquoise blue color and the beach is white, white, white sand. We saw a whale and several times had large pods of dolphin feeding around the boat. Unfortunately, at 66° the water is still too cold for swimming (at least for us).

Isla Cornados

The morning of the third day, the weather was beginning to change and we were again starting to roll so up came the hook and we boogied on into here. Since the beer, wine and veggies were getting low and the laundry & garbage were piling up it was time to get to some civilization to re-provision. Yesterday we shared a rental car with Bill & Lisa to go into Loreto and take care of all the things on the “to do” and “we need” lists. The “plan” was to leave tomorrow but there is some pretty stiff wind expected for the next few days so it looks like we’ll hang around for a few more days. In the meantime, Escondido has always been a great place to stay.

Morning Mist in Puerto Escondido

San Carlos, 2012

OK…OK…OK! Last night when I called Mary I was severely admonished because I haven’t posted a blog entry in so long. I explained that since we haven’t left San Carlos since we got here it seems like life has been kind of boring. She said no matter what we are doing, the mere fact that we are on a boat in Mexico makes it not boring. So, I will see what I can come up with.

Algodones Beach (aka Catch 22 Beach)

Today the wind is screaming and we have whitecaps bouncing through the marina. The boat is being pushed every which way and the dock lines are straining to keep us attached to the dock. Just getting onto or off of the boat is a challenge as you have to coordinate your step up or down with the back & forth rhythm of the boat. We have had this wind more often than not as San Carlos creates a kind of Venturi effect and the afternoon breeze outside just funnels down the entrance and builds in strength as it gets further in. It usually starts around 11am and builds until sunset.

Local Fauna.

Once the sun goes down the wind normally dies. In this case, however, we have what is called “Norther”. It is a front that has started in the Pacific NW and goes all the way down the coast and across the Baja peninsula and Sea of Cortez. The wind has been a pretty steady 25 knots but some gusts have gone as high as 40. Eww! We are quite happy that we are at a dock. At anchor would be uncomfortable & stressful…sailing would be totally ugly. Abby just hates big wind and tends to curl up in her bed with her stuffed dragon and shake, which is exactly what she is doing now.

View from the Restaurant At The End Of The World (in La Manga)

So what have we been doing all this time? Chris has been servicing all the parts & pieces of the engine (we have a 50 hp Yanmar diesel), replacing batteries and water tanks, re-running all the halyards, re-installing the aft head, re-building the forward head, checking the gribs (on line weather reports) and all sorts of other odds and ends jobs. I have been oiling teak, cleaning heads, making beds, organizing, stowing & inventorying food, doing laundry and all manner of domestic chores that everyone else does albeit in a house on land. Our friends, Ken & Linde (S/V Rosebud) are still here and living in their RV as they have decided to sell the sailboat and move up to a trawler so we have spent a bit of time hanging out with them. Linde & I have played quite a few games of Baja Canasta in the past few weeks!

Since we knew we were going to be in one place for at least a month I decided this would be a good time to take a Spanish class. What a great idea that has turned out to be. I have been able to attend for almost 8 weeks and I’ve really learned a lot. Over the past three years I’ve picked up a lot of words but now I am actually able to form sentences and I’m not afraid to initiate an actual conversation. Still have lots to learn but I am making great progress and have even taught Chris (who speaks excellent Spanish) some new things.

View from the Mirador (Viewpoint).

The weather is supposed to calm down some tomorrow and by Thursday we are looking at a nice long weather window so we are preparing to leave that day. In the meantime we are doing last minute chores so we can be away from marinas for a couple months. Yesterday Chris changed the fuel filters and tomorrow he will change the oil. I defrosted the freezer, made a trip to Tony’s to stock up on fresh veggies (which are much harder to come by on the Baja) and got my hair cut today. All these great veggies for about $16!

Later today or tomorrow Chris & I will make one more trip to Guaymas to stock up on wine & beer, make a stop at the bank and the Santa Rosa Market to get meat. Tomorrow morning we’re invited over to Leonard’s boat for breakfast and then I am meeting Linde at the Laundromat to get all our laundry done and play a few last hands of Baja Canasta. Tomorrow evening we’re having Ken & Linde over for dinner and Thursday morning we are outta here. Our first stop will be Bahia San Pedro (28° 03.443’N, 111° 14.782’W for those who like to look on Google Earth) for a couple reasons. First of all it is only 15nm north of San Carlos so is an easy 3-4 hour sail. It is a protected anchorage that has no amenities (ie: no people or town). It is also the very first place Chris & I went in the Sea. When we were first getting to know each other I flew to Tucson for a weeklong visit and we came to San Carlos to sail on his 26’ boat. This was where he took me so it has a bit of romantic background for us. We’ll anchor there for a couple nights and then scoot across the Sea and start working our way south through some of the beautiful anchorages on the Baja.

So…that is what we’re doing. Sounds pretty boring to me but the sun is shining, the sky is blue and we have watched some spectacular sunsets. We’ve visited with friends. We’ve done a little local exploring. We’ve read a few books. We’ve gone out for some great meals. As Chris likes to say, “It’s all good”. San Carlos Sunset

Doors and Windows

Last Sunday morning I decided to take my camera for a walk. It was a beautiful, sunny day (like always) and the temperature was a perfect 75-ish. I have been enthralled by the stunning homes that feature the work of local craftsmen and wanted to share a bit of that with my followers.

One of the things I enjoy most about Mexican homes is that there are no two alike. Don't you love this unusual wall and door?

The American phenomenon of neighborhoods filled with houses that are all the same shape and all painted one of five shades of dull is extremely rare here. There are a few areas where you will find a “planned” and “gated” community of boxes that are all the same size, shape and color, but they are few and far between and, judging by the billboards and other enticements around the sales office, they seem to be built to lure the American market. Most of those seem to be timeshares, condos and apartments that are sold at exorbitant prices with very restrictive usage agreements.

Most of the homes I see in the towns we frequent are built to the individual’s personal taste and painted to express their imagination. The palette of brilliant color combinations is unending and even though the dust is relentless, the buildings usually appear spotlessly clean or freshly painted. There seems to be a paint store on almost every corner so materials are readily available.

A walk through almost any neighborhood is a feast for the eyes. Here are homes painted pink, blue, gold, turquoise and purple with all manner of unusual trim combinations.

Hard to see but stained glass windows frame this door.

The “extras” are nothing short of amazing. Wrought iron is a real art and it is not unusual to see gates with dolphins, marlin, roses and all sorts of other symbols intricately worked into the iron. If the designs weren’t enough, they are often beautifully painted or set off by rock walls or brilliant plants that are clearly chosen specifically for that purpose.

Doors and windows are my particularly favorite eye candy. The designs are created by people with imaginations that have no limits and serve no masters. Artists who are not limited by strict rules set by a Neighborhood Association or the “What will the neighbors think?” concerns many of us grew up with. Clearly these stunning doors and windows are set into each home with much forethought and are intended to draw the eye of passersby. They are all different. Many are stunningly exotic. Some recall a past era. Love the fish & "seaweed" wrought iron!

Some are quaint or whimsical. Many are absolutely breathtaking.

Since I spend winters enjoying the sunshine and good will of Mexico I can understand others wanting the same thing. What I can’t understand is the draw of a beige box surrounded by a locked gate with all the same neighbors you have back home. I love the adventure of tottering down a cobblestone street, and being greeted with “Hola” or “Buenos Dias” by the people I pass. Rounding a corner or reaching a dead end and finding a home in front of me with spectacular doors and windows is the frosting on the cake.

Road Trip with Lee

One of the stops we made on our journey south was Nipomo, CA. Chris’ brother Lee and his wife, Julie have a new townhome there where they reside during the winter months. They have a lovely home in Florence, OR but they, like us, prefer a sunnier clime to the normal winter gloom of the NW. Their new digs are part of a planned community that centers mostly around golf. There is a beautiful golf course close by as well as tennis courts, a pool and a lovely clubhouse with workout facilities, spa and library in addition to dining and bar areas. The homes are beautiful and Lee & Julie are really enjoying the weather, their friendly neighbors and, of course the golfing. Chris & I have a great time playing golf on our new Wii but our outdoor passion, as you know, is more water oriented.

While we were in Nipomo, Lee took us on a drive to show us around some of the nearby sights. First stop was Pismo Beach. This is a typical California beach. A beautiful palette of long, flat, golden sand accented by blue Pacific waves cascading onto the beach in perfectly timed displays of white lace surf. An irresistible invitation to surfers, sand castle builders, shell hunters and beach walkers. A pier that extends 1200 ft. out over the water is replete with benches on which to rest, enjoy the beauty and contemplate whatever it is you are contemplating. About halfway out the pier is a small kiosk where fishing gear can be rented for those who would like to try their hand at catching dinner. The main street is lined with assorted restaurants and boutique shops where you are free to leave behind a monetary contribution as a reminder of your visit.

After perusing Pismo Beach we were back on the road for a short jaunt to a special small grove of Eucalyptus trees. I’ve always wanted to see the annual gathering of Monarch Butterflies and one of the primary groves where this happens was our next stop. A talk presented by a Docent gave us a good deal of information about the butterflies. It seems the main reason they come to this particular grove is for the abundant supply of Milkweed which is the only food source for the caterpillar stage of their development. This plant is considered a weed so it is being removed in most places on a grand scale. That means the butterflies must work harder to survive…as if a 2500 mile migration weren’t work enough! Following the Docent’s talk, we wandered around looking for butterflies. It was chilly so there weren’t many fluttering about but when we looked up there were hundreds hanging in the trees in what looked like bunches dead leaves. Butterflies aren’t able to fly when it is too cold but just before we left the sun came out and the little snowbirds began to get a bit more active. They are just so pretty and this was a really special experience.

The last stop on our itinerary was a visit to the picturesque anchorage Avila Beach. Chris & I enjoyed wandering around the boatyard there, looking at the boats that were in the process of being repaired. One that was hanging from the slings of the lift looked an awful lot like our friend, Michael’s, Mariner but a bit smaller. We weren’t sure it was the same but one sure thing was that the owner has a lot of work ahead of him/her, especially given the amount of sea life on the bottom. We were pretty happy to be reminded that even though we have what we consider a lot of work to do on “Faith” it is really not much compared to other people’s projects.

It was a delight to let someone else do the driving while Chris & I just did a little sightseeing. This year we are late getting our southward journey started so it feels like it’s been a constant push. Even Abby has felt the stress. We were in Tucson for two days and when Chris & I returned from several hours of errand running and put her outside for a bit, the first thing she did was stretch out in the sun. As if to say, “Ahhhhhhhh…finally it is warm.” And that, my friends, is why we are happy to be snowbirds!

Mishmash

I wrote this a few days ago but haven't had time to post it before this so here goes:

We are finally southbound! As I write this, I am sitting in the waiting room of the Camping World in Vacaville, CA. I have to admit, having only blown by Vacaville on past journeys, I am quite surprised at what a modern, upscale burg it is. In case you are wondering why we chose to stop, the answer is quite simple. Just before the house closed the trailer’s heater went on strike. Since it was only a matter of days before we’d be moving into the house, the decision was made to buy a space heater for the trailer and put off repairing the furnace. Our first stop after leaving home, in Medford, OR, when the nighttime temperature dropped to 28°, made it abundantly clear that furnace repair was in our immediate future! Vacaville was the closest Camping World so here we are.

I never got around to writing the promised blog entry about the house, so here it is with a little travel mish mash worked in.

We had a grand time furnishing the house together. While we waited (and waited and waited) for the bank to do its thing Chris & I spent many days exploring furniture stores and learning about each other’s tastes. Not surprisingly, we generally have similar leanings when it comes to likes and dislikes with only a few big differences. One slight conflict was the size of the television. Chris wanted the 50” model and I was quite happy to “settle for” a much smaller version. He won that discussion but now that we have it mounted on the entertainment “wall” (IKEA special) I have to admit that a smaller one would probably have looked out of place.

An even grander time was entertaining family and friends over the holidays. Once we got the house “put together” we were able to host several parties (only the beginning I’m sure). We haven’t been home for Christmas in 3 years so it was a special treat to spend time with the kids and grandkids and actually be able to see them open their gifts. We have especially enjoyed being here to spend a little time with Chris’ first grandbaby, Asher. He was born September 26^th and is growing so fast. By the time we get back next June he will likely be on his feet and running.

Abby has absolutely loved having her very own squirrel filled yard where she could run and pursue the enemy to her heart’s content. The windows in the living room are quite low to the floor so she is able to be on the look-out for squirrels, cats or guests. When she sees a cat or squirrel in front she immediately runs to the backdoor to be let out as she is just sure it will be there waiting to be chased. She has also discovered that there are lots of sunny spots on comfy carpeted floors where she can take an afternoon snooze.

Once all the work was done on the house and we had arranged for a house sitter, it was time to start readying the trailer for the trek to Mexico. That last week before we left home was exhausting just moving everything into the trailer, cleaning, writing lists and watching the weather to make sure we wouldn’t be skating through the mountains in mountains of ice and snow.

So, Tuesday morning we left Vancouver and spent that night in cold Medford. We were concerned about freezing fog going through the mountains so delayed leaving until 11 on Wednesday and the road were clear and dry. As a matter of fact, the only snow we saw was a very light dusting on the very tops of the mountains in the distance and Mt. Shasta had less snow than it did when we went north last June. I predict (weatherperson that I am) that if something doesn’t change soon there will be drought conditions in the northwest next summer.

By the time we reached Vacaville yesterday the temperature was in the 70’s and we were able to change into t-shirts. Hallelujah! It’s sure nice to be back in the land of Palm trees and sunshine.

The Sentinel

The Sentinel attends his post in the gray and gloomy dawn. Faint morning light, fall’s chill in the air, and still he stands, unmoving, as he surveys his territory. His countenance is statue-like and with the cold, blue-gray of his suit he melts unseen into the surroundings. Eyes forward, posture unwavering, trance-like. Only his sharp eyes and unblinking gaze belie strict attention to his environ. Intruders may advance only so far before he stalks haughtily away or takes wing with a primordial squawk and flourish in search of a more secluded haunt.

“Who be these strange creatures”, thinks he, “who clomp about on awkward appendages, blathering and clanging with no regard for solitude or meditation? Have they no care for the thoughts of others? Or be they fearful of the quiet that is dawn and dusk?

Do they not feel the shudder of the fish below their feet? Fish, whose very scales vibrate with the touch of insect foot upon the water’s surface. Fish, who scatter madly at the slightest change in light or temperature. And what of the infant ducklings huddling in terror beneath the boards?

Behemoths, bahhhh. Let them all fly away on their winged craft and leave the waters and serenity to we who appreciate it.”

Sandy Smith (Edmonson) Fall 2006

Just thought it would be fun to start out the New Year with something old. Happy 2012 to all.

Fall Colors,...a little late!

I had intended to write a blog entry a couple weeks ago about the beautiful fall we have had in the northwest but somehow the time just time just flew by and now we are busy moving into the new house and fall has eased into the beginning of winter.

Personally, I have been through approximately 50 autumns in Washington as this is where I have spent the majority of my life. I was born in Port Angeles and lived there until I was twelve at which time my family moved to Tacoma. After high school I spent several years in San Diego before returning to Vancouver where I resided until 2008 when I sailed off into the sunset to begin spending cold, dark months in places more along the tropical lines.

Chris, on the other hand, has spent most of his life in Arizona where fall does not, apparently, arrive and depart with the same impact. It is mostly desert there and cacti and palm trees don’t react the way the deciduous trees in colder climes do when the days get shorter and the weather gets colder.

This year we have had one of the most spectacular seasons of color I have seen in a long while. I don’t know the reason for it. Maybe because the Spring lasted so long and summer (what there was of it) didn’t really arrive until sometime in August. Maybe the cause was global climate change. There could be any number of factors, but the reality is the colors this year were spectacular. Every day, as we drove or walked around the area, we’d see dramatic trees showing off their autumn finery. A sharp intake of breath and “Wow!” would ensue. Chris was continuously telling me that he’d never seen anything like it and how much he loved the beauty of the whole thing.

The trees are mostly naked now and every morning we wake up to find a thick coating of frost on the grass. The sunny days are spectacularly clear and crisply cold and when the fog settles in it often sticks around all day. I know the weeks and weeks of rain and gloom are on the way and already the weather guys on TV are beginning to speculate on the possibilities of a white Christmas but for the moment I’m good. I, like many long time north westerners, have always disliked the long, cold, rainy winters in this part of the world but the summers are spectacular so we slog through one to enjoy the other. I suspect it will be a lot different now that I don’t have to go to work. Oh, and it will probably help knowing that we will be heading for Mexico again come January!