A Death in the Family

My mother-in-law passed away on July 3^rd one month to the day from her 87^th birthday. We had visited her in Tucson in June and, while she was having some breathing difficulties, she seemed to be doing quite well the day we saw her. Unfortunately, a week later we received news that she had been diagnosed with stage 4 cancer and was not expected to survive the summer. The family (5 children, 10 grandchildren and 5 great-grandchildren) gathered around, made trips to AZ for one last visit and began to comfort each other.

After Dottie passed away the work began of going through all her belongs. It was a melancholy task made a little easier by the stories shared by all about their mother/grandmother and their lives growing up with her. Dottie’s home of 25+ years as well as her more recent apartment at an assisted living facility were filled with the memorabilia collected over the course of 86 years of a life well lived. In addition to the usual furniture and everyday household items, the volume of photos, pieces of art, knick knacks and miscellaneous paperwork that had to be gone through piece by piece was amazing.

When I purchased my sailboat in 2006 it required some dramatic downsizing. In addition to selling the house, I was shocked at how much “stuff” I had accumulated that had to be sold, given away or passed on to the kids just to get down to just what I absolutely needed (and would fit) on the boat. A very few special things that I wanted to keep “just in case” the cruising didn’t work out required the rental of a 5’x5’ storage unit and even that was whittled down each successive summer when I wondered why I’d kept this or that. It was brutally difficult in the “he with the most stuff wins” attitude that most of us seem to have, but it had to be done and once accomplished, it was like losing an anchor I’d been dragging around. 

Since 2006 I have acquired a husband, a dog, a travel trailer and another house on dirt. We still have the boat but it is in Mexico where we cruise during the winter months. Chris had minimal belongings when we got together but since purchasing the house we have begun amassing “things” once again. After 2 weeks of sorting and dividing all of Dottie’s belongings we have been reminded again how quickly things can get out of hand. We have vowed to be circumspect in gathering “stuff” so that when we pass away our children will not have so much to dig through.

Still, I think a lot of the sorting, which also involved much reminiscing and retelling of family history, was somewhat healing for the family and brought them closer together. Maybe the gathering of things for someone else to deal with is a good thing after all.     

Ice Cream and Flush Toilets

Two of the things I miss during the winter cruising months are ice cream and flush toilets. Certainly there are other things, but those are kind of at the top of my “whoopee” list when I get back to land.

Now ice cream (and usually it is very good quality ice cream) is available at Helado Stores all over Mexico. What I miss is being able to have ice cream at hand in my place of residence. The freezer in the boat just does not stay cold enough to keep the ice cream frozen. This was one of the first lessons I learned when I bought the boat. The day I, and several of my girlfriends, brought her from Astoria to Portland was predicted to be very hot so we bought some yummy Haagen-Daz ice cream bars and put them in the freezer for an afternoon treat. About halfway through the trip it was time to bring out the ice cream and our mouths were watering. One bite into the chocolate coating and we discovered that what we had was actually ice cream soup! Very sad.

Flush toilets are a real luxury on a boat. You can get them but they are very expensive and use power (which there never seems to be enough of) so most boats (ours included) have toilets that must be pumped by hand. They work alright but it is sometimes a bit of a process to (How can I say this delicately?) get everything to go down. First you flip the little lever up and pump the handle to bring water into the toilet, then you flip it down to flush everything out. Complicating the matter is that the hoses are a mere 1-1/2”. We (as with most cruisers) keep a waste basket in each head and the rule on the boat is, “If you didn’t eat it, don’t flush it.” I dream of someday having an electric flush toilet but with a price tag of about $1,000 that is way down the priority list.

Next on the “things I miss” list is being able to prepare any meal without tearing the place apart to get the ingredients. Boats do not have convenient cupboards like a house-on-dirt does. I have a few cabinets but the majority of the food items go into large storage areas underneath or behind the seats. This necessitates some sort of “filing system” in order to remember where everything is. I have a great inventory on the computer but since that requires the computer to be set up & turned on in order to view it I mostly just “remember” where I put things. Actually, it’s easier than you would think. Most of the canned foods and staples (flour, sugar, cooking oil, etc.) are under the seat closest to the galley; pastas, marinades & salad dressings are behind the aft seat; cake mixes, nuts, crackers and cereals are behind the forward seat; etc. Still, in order to prepare a meal, the seating area around the table must be taken apart to get the ingredients. The fridge is another project all together. Most boat refrigeration units are top loading and the bottom is the inside of the hull which gets deeper the closer it gets to the middle of the boat. “Faith” is no exception. What that means for me is that I can’t reach the bottom of the freezer section and everything slides to that place. It also means that there is really no way to organize what is inside and it is inevitable that ¾ of the contents will need to be removed and replaced in order to make a sandwich.

Aft bunk

Making beds on the boat is another interesting exercise. Very few boats (the exception being power boats and some catamarans) have beds that are not attached to the hull on at least one side. This means that in order to make the bed you must be IN the bed. Also, the beds are NEVER a standard size so normal bedding does not fit. The bed in our aft cabin (“captain’s quarters”) is just under a queen width-wise but is almost 14’ long. I’ve had special sheets made to fit it but blankets are all too short and too wide. When it comes to making up the “V-berth”, which is in the pointy end of the boat, it is hopeless. 

V-berth

Sunset at Bahia Algodones

Some people would consider these inconveniences deal breakers but if you want to live this life, it’s just the way things are. I realize I am very privileged to be able to spend my winters on a sailboat in warm, tropical places and I love it. The difficulties are just another part of the experience. Still…one of the first things I do when we get back to land living is buy a pint of Ben & Jerry’s Ice Cream to put in the freezer!  

Once again it has been a while since my last post. Mostly because, here in the Islands (in the Sea of Cortez), our internet availability is very spotty. Even when we do have a connection it is usually quite slow.

  

Palapa on the Beach

One of our goals for this year’s short season has been to find some new “favorite” spots and we began by visiting Bahia Candeleros. In past years I was reluctant to go to this anchorage because of the many very large rocks (“The Candles”) that one has to avoid. After three years of new experiences I have finally overcome my fear factor and now wonder what the fuss was about. What a lovely place to rest and explore. We anchored in about 15 ft. of emerald green water that was so clear we could see the white sand and fish swimming under us. As soon as the anchor was set we took the dinghy to the beach and found soft, soft sand and a nice little palapa that serves the best ceviche Chris has ever had (and he’s had a lot) and cold, cold cerveza. The beach is very long and empty so Abby was able to run until she dropped. The water was almost warm enough to swim in but wading in the shallows was an exercise in attention as there were a lot of Skates (busy making babies no less). The detraction is a very large timeshare resort. We met some of the folks who were vacationing there (from Seattle no less) and they told us that there were only about 30 people in residence. Apparently the timeshare is owned by a company that also has one in Cabo San Lucas and they advertise this one as being “away from the crowds”. Well…that is sure the truth! The folks staying there are a long way from any town and the only entertainment (think food/drink) is what the resort provides. They warned us about the prices but when “Tamara” arrived and invited us to join them for dinner to celebrate Marili’s birthday we readily accepted. Turns out the folks from Seattle were not wrong! Granted, the food was delicious but the bill for just Chris & I was $200 (US)!! That pretty much takes the cake for the most expensive meal we have ever had in Mexico! The beer was $5/ea. and wine was $10/glass so that was a consideration, but still…

Fun with Dave & Marili

Another new anchorage for this year was Bahia Salinas on the east side of Carmen Island. It is a beautiful place with another very long, white sand beach and crystal clear water. At one end of the beach is an abandoned salt processing plant and, in the middle of the bay, a 180’ tuna boat is resting on its side after having sunk quite a few years ago. This is a great place for snorkeling and diving. There were 4 other boats there when we were and the bay is so large that it felt like we were all alone. Unfortunately, the Islands are part of a National Park so no dogs are allowed. We actually only stayed one night there as we were beginning to get itchy feet to begin the trip home and still had several stops to make. Next year we intend to do some exploring there.

Trigger Fish for dinner...Yum!

Next stop: Isla Coronados. We stay in the southern anchorage where there are usually less boats than use the anchorage around the corner. If there is a southerly wind or swell it can get pretty uncomfortable but we’ve been lucky so far. This is one place where we are happy to stay for long periods of time. This year we had some delightful treats. A small pod of Dolphins were in residence much of the time and they were mostly staying in the shallow water between the boat & shore. Probably because there were babies in the bunch. During the early evening hours they would all leap and spout and slap the water and it was like having our own personal Sea World show. During the day the Rays were practicing their acrobatics, doing backflips and belly flops to show off their pearly white undersides. I’ve never been able to find out why they do this but it is pretty common and fun to watch. We were also thrilled to see lots and lots of sea turtles. These guys were almost completely annihilated a few years back but because of the Mexican government’s intervention and the help of lots of volunteer groups educating the public, protecting the nests & launching the babies when they are born, they are now coming back. We have seen lots of the turtles along the Pacific Coast of Mexico (and have been able to help with a turtle release a couple times) but these are really the first in the Sea so we were delighted at the large numbers. This island is also a big rookery for Gulls so the noise is non-stop. One of the days we were there we took the dinghy out around the sand spit to see what was there and Chris got chased out by the gulls when he got too close.

While we were at Isla Coronados, I finally got my kayak out & inflated and made my “maiden voyage” on it. It was easier than I thought and I can see that I am going to have a lot of fun with it in the future. 

From this anchorage we went to my “favorite” anchorage (San Juanico) for a couple days. It was fun to see that the Osprey babies had gotten big enough during the past month that one had learned to fly and left the nest. The water was finally warm enough to swim in. There were only six boats there. It was delightful. 

One last baby to be fed!

The day we made the 8 hour jump to Santo Domingo was miserably hot and there wasn’t a breath of wind so we played motorboat all day. By the time we arrived we were all anxious to have a cold beer and get into the water. As we came into the anchorage we passed several large (20 or more) groups of Golden Rays. It was so cool to see them. I got a picture but the water was wavy so it isn’t perfect. Still, it is a rare sight and we were all excited. The next morning on the net we found out that it had been 107° that day so it was no surprise that the water felt wonderful. 

Believe it or not...Golden Rays.

Next morning “The Plan” was to go to Punta Chivato (about a 2 hour trip), go to dinner with our friends on “Mystique” and cross the Sea the following morning. Well…cruising plans are always in flux and this one was no different. When we woke up there was a big swell out of the south and pea soup fog. The boat looked like it had been rained on, since we hadn’t closed hatches, the inside was damp and the table wet. As soon as the fog lifted enough to see the shore we left but not to make the crossing. With that big swell and the predicted weather conditions we decided to come to Santa Rosalia to wait it out.

San Juanico sunrise.

As I write this, we are sitting comfortably in a slip. When we arrived, Dave (S/V Wavesweeper), who we met in Newport, OR in ’08 on the trip south, was here to grab a dockline. It really is a small world. It is nice to have “real” showers, good internet and be able to walk to town again. Looks like Saturday will be a good day to travel so I’m just enjoying the lazy days while I can.  

Update from Puerto Escondido

All alone in San Pedro Bay.

I know some of you out there are wondering what in the heck happened to me but I have a very good explanation! We have been cruising around and the internet has been sporadic and weak. Today we are in Puerto Escondido, just south of Loreto, on the Baja Peninsula. We arrived here 3 days ago and picked up a mooring ball (like being anchored to a large hunk of cement on the bottom). Then Chris decided that after three weeks on the hook we needed one day in a “slip” to get the boat cleaned up, the water tanks filled, etc. It costs about $15/day to be on a mooring ball (anchoring here is the same price but anchoring anywhere else is free) and about 2 or 3 times that amount for one night at the dock. Still, we needed to fill the water tanks and the boat was one huge salt ball so it was worth it.

Faith in her "slip".

The “slip” we have is actually the end of the one dock they have here. The dock you tie up to is almost as long as “Faith” is and there is a powerboat parked at each end with their bows sticking out. Since it was going to be a bit of a challenge to parallel park between them we asked our friend, Bill, to catch a line for us and he was happy to do it. Note: Anchors attempting to mate!

As it turned out, when the dock guys saw us coming, they moved one of the powerboats back and then they came to help as well. I got her situated with no drama but it sure is a bit intimidating looking at how close our anchor is to the boat in front and our dinghy davits are to the one behind. I am anticipating an easier time getting out.

So, where, you might ask, have we been? Well, first we went to a beautiful anchorage just 15 miles north of San Carlos called Bahia San Pedro. This was the very first place in the Sea of Cortez that Chris took me.

Bahia San Pedro

This was on his little Columbia 26 back in 2008 when we were first getting to know each other. It was beautiful then and still is. The first night was very nice but the second was pretty uncomfortable as the southerly swell wrapped around the point and caused the boat to roll pretty substantially. In the morning the wind & swell had switched around from the NW so we moved across the Bay and tucked up behind the headland where the water was as flat as a pond. We were the only boat there so stayed for 2 more nights before heading across to Punta Chivato.

Abby on the way to the beach. Saying "Dinghy Ride?" to her is like saying, "Squirrel?"

The crossing was great. With 15 knots of wind and just little 2-3 ft. seas out of the NW we had a beam reach all the way across and averaged about 6.5 knots. I even caught a little Yellowtail Tuna for dinner!

Sandy's Yellowtail

It took 11 hours to cross and we arrived in Chivato just at sunset. We stayed for a couple days and then headed to Santo Domingo.

Chris on watch. Abby, not so much!

This anchorage is just inside of the Bahia de Concepcion and is a great staging area for people who are going to cross the Sea or just have. After one night we went deeper into the bay to El Burro Cove.

The last time we were at El Burro was in May of 2009 and I loved it. The water was that beautiful emerald green and very warm. This visit was not so pleasant. We arrived in the middle of Semana Santa (Easter week) and the place was swarming with tents and campers and everyone brought their water toys. After two days of being one of the rounding marks for the jet skiers we upped anchor and went back out to Santo Domingo where we were the only boat in the anchorage for three whole days. Talk about decadent!

Santo Domingo

From Santo Domingo, San Juanico was the next stop. This is a gorgeous anchorage with turquoise water and all sorts of amazing rock formations is a favorite with most of the cruisers. Most of the anchorage is only about 15-20 ft. deep and it is quite well protected, not to mention beautiful. The cruisers have erected a “shrine” here which is actually a large bush that all the visitors leave a momento on. I had hoped this would be THE place to try out my new kayak but, alas, it was pretty windy much of the time so I didn’t even unpack the new toy. San Juanico pillar rocks

The last night we were there, our friends, Bill & Lisa, on “Beyond Reason” organized a BBQ/bonfire on the beach. It was fun and there were lots of new people to meet. They picked one of the smaller beaches that is surrounded by big rocks so the cruising dogs could have the run of the beach without having to be watched constantly. Abby had a ball chasing around with Sparky and Tappy and Mia (I think that was her name). It was just as much fun for the dogs as it was for us and by the time we got back to the boat Abby was exhausted and went right to bed.

From San Juanico we went to Isla Coronados where there are several lovely anchorages. We stayed in one on the SW where we hadn’t been before. This is another place where the water is that stunning turquoise blue color and the beach is white, white, white sand. We saw a whale and several times had large pods of dolphin feeding around the boat. Unfortunately, at 66° the water is still too cold for swimming (at least for us).

Isla Cornados

The morning of the third day, the weather was beginning to change and we were again starting to roll so up came the hook and we boogied on into here. Since the beer, wine and veggies were getting low and the laundry & garbage were piling up it was time to get to some civilization to re-provision. Yesterday we shared a rental car with Bill & Lisa to go into Loreto and take care of all the things on the “to do” and “we need” lists. The “plan” was to leave tomorrow but there is some pretty stiff wind expected for the next few days so it looks like we’ll hang around for a few more days. In the meantime, Escondido has always been a great place to stay.

Morning Mist in Puerto Escondido

San Carlos, 2012

OK…OK…OK! Last night when I called Mary I was severely admonished because I haven’t posted a blog entry in so long. I explained that since we haven’t left San Carlos since we got here it seems like life has been kind of boring. She said no matter what we are doing, the mere fact that we are on a boat in Mexico makes it not boring. So, I will see what I can come up with.

Algodones Beach (aka Catch 22 Beach)

Today the wind is screaming and we have whitecaps bouncing through the marina. The boat is being pushed every which way and the dock lines are straining to keep us attached to the dock. Just getting onto or off of the boat is a challenge as you have to coordinate your step up or down with the back & forth rhythm of the boat. We have had this wind more often than not as San Carlos creates a kind of Venturi effect and the afternoon breeze outside just funnels down the entrance and builds in strength as it gets further in. It usually starts around 11am and builds until sunset.

Local Fauna.

Once the sun goes down the wind normally dies. In this case, however, we have what is called “Norther”. It is a front that has started in the Pacific NW and goes all the way down the coast and across the Baja peninsula and Sea of Cortez. The wind has been a pretty steady 25 knots but some gusts have gone as high as 40. Eww! We are quite happy that we are at a dock. At anchor would be uncomfortable & stressful…sailing would be totally ugly. Abby just hates big wind and tends to curl up in her bed with her stuffed dragon and shake, which is exactly what she is doing now.

View from the Restaurant At The End Of The World (in La Manga)

So what have we been doing all this time? Chris has been servicing all the parts & pieces of the engine (we have a 50 hp Yanmar diesel), replacing batteries and water tanks, re-running all the halyards, re-installing the aft head, re-building the forward head, checking the gribs (on line weather reports) and all sorts of other odds and ends jobs. I have been oiling teak, cleaning heads, making beds, organizing, stowing & inventorying food, doing laundry and all manner of domestic chores that everyone else does albeit in a house on land. Our friends, Ken & Linde (S/V Rosebud) are still here and living in their RV as they have decided to sell the sailboat and move up to a trawler so we have spent a bit of time hanging out with them. Linde & I have played quite a few games of Baja Canasta in the past few weeks!

Since we knew we were going to be in one place for at least a month I decided this would be a good time to take a Spanish class. What a great idea that has turned out to be. I have been able to attend for almost 8 weeks and I’ve really learned a lot. Over the past three years I’ve picked up a lot of words but now I am actually able to form sentences and I’m not afraid to initiate an actual conversation. Still have lots to learn but I am making great progress and have even taught Chris (who speaks excellent Spanish) some new things.

View from the Mirador (Viewpoint).

The weather is supposed to calm down some tomorrow and by Thursday we are looking at a nice long weather window so we are preparing to leave that day. In the meantime we are doing last minute chores so we can be away from marinas for a couple months. Yesterday Chris changed the fuel filters and tomorrow he will change the oil. I defrosted the freezer, made a trip to Tony’s to stock up on fresh veggies (which are much harder to come by on the Baja) and got my hair cut today. All these great veggies for about $16!

Later today or tomorrow Chris & I will make one more trip to Guaymas to stock up on wine & beer, make a stop at the bank and the Santa Rosa Market to get meat. Tomorrow morning we’re invited over to Leonard’s boat for breakfast and then I am meeting Linde at the Laundromat to get all our laundry done and play a few last hands of Baja Canasta. Tomorrow evening we’re having Ken & Linde over for dinner and Thursday morning we are outta here. Our first stop will be Bahia San Pedro (28° 03.443’N, 111° 14.782’W for those who like to look on Google Earth) for a couple reasons. First of all it is only 15nm north of San Carlos so is an easy 3-4 hour sail. It is a protected anchorage that has no amenities (ie: no people or town). It is also the very first place Chris & I went in the Sea. When we were first getting to know each other I flew to Tucson for a weeklong visit and we came to San Carlos to sail on his 26’ boat. This was where he took me so it has a bit of romantic background for us. We’ll anchor there for a couple nights and then scoot across the Sea and start working our way south through some of the beautiful anchorages on the Baja.

So…that is what we’re doing. Sounds pretty boring to me but the sun is shining, the sky is blue and we have watched some spectacular sunsets. We’ve visited with friends. We’ve done a little local exploring. We’ve read a few books. We’ve gone out for some great meals. As Chris likes to say, “It’s all good”. San Carlos Sunset