Suwarrow

Hello!
Today is August 11, 2009 and we are anchored in Suwarrow (pronounced Suvarov). This is actually an atoll which, by definition, is a large, generally circular, reef which has a number of small islands on the inside. It is beautiful here and we are one of about 17 boats. This is truly the island Paradise we have dreamed of. Just sand and palm trees, azure water, warm breezes and the only inhabitants are the two caretakers, John & Veronica (Cook Islanders), and their 4 sons. There are no stores, no cars, no telephones, no internet, etc.
We arrived yesterday around noon and there was a potluck and concert on the beach last night. What an amazing experience that was. The crowd consisted of cruisers from numerous countries (France, Australia, New Zealand, Great Britain, America, etc) as well as John & Veronica. The food was wonderful and music was provided by Roger & Bobbie Jo from “Hipnautical”. Roger plays guitar and Bobbie Jo has a…wait for it…harp! She also has a lovely voice and a beautiful spirit.
When we dinghied to the beach, the boat kids were playing soccer and working off some of the pent up energy that must build up pretty quickly when you are a kid living on a boat. Soon after we’d gotten a drink and begun visiting with the other cruisers, an announcement was made that it was time to feed the sharks. Off we all trooped to the beach on the other side of the island (about a 2 minute walk…it’s a small island) where there were LOTS of black tip and gray sharks in ankle deep water waiting for dinner. The kids would stand on the rocks and throw fish parts in and then the sharks went wild. This is a regular routine and the sharks are clearly in the know. I was told they feed them on that side of the island and are very careful not to throw garbage in the anchorage side so the sharks will not think it is OK to chow down on the cruisers. Note: this morning about a 3 ft long black tip shark swam right past the swim ladder on the boat! Chris jumped in a bit later and when he got out & was rinsing off on the back step, 3 sharks swam by. Suzanne & I have decided against swimming here!
Just before the dinner, John said grace and it was very moving. As a Cook Islander he is very strong in his faith. The gist of his prayer was that we have been set on this journey and brought together in this place by God and we are all one community and the caretakers of the world. After dinner we celebrated two birthdays. Anna (a cruiser off a French boat) turned 50 and gave a lovely speech about the gift she has been given in her husband and the opportunity to go cruising. Also, one of John & Veronica’s sons has a birthday today so he was included in the singing and birthday cake. In addition, Mike and Luke on “Thin Wolf” were celebrating having left Port Townsend on this journey exactly one year ago. The final announcement of the evening was that Chris & I had found “our” special island!
We said that we intended to marry at sunset on Tuesday and I was stunned to see how excited everyone was and how eager they were to help put together a wedding for people they hardly know. The next day everyone was out cleaning the beach, learning how to plait palm fronds for decorations, planning menus and music etc.
That evening (Monday) Dietmar & Suzanne hosted a Bachelor/Bachelorette party aboard Carinthia that was attended by all the cruisers here. It is not possible to describe how much fun it is hanging out and getting to know people from all over the world.
Alas, Monday morning we awoke to 25 knt winds and rain squalls. After checking the grib files (weatherfax) we could see that conditions were not going to change for two more days so the ceremony was postponed to Friday. Today, again, we have squalls and wind. After two days and nights of wind as high as 45 knts and big chop that contributed to several boats dragging anchor in the middle of the night, it looks like tomorrow will finally be “the day”.